Nine years ago, I wrote an article called “Sleep Together and Have Sons: Celebrating Chinese New Year with Sex and Dumplings” for Maisonneuve Magazine’s blog, back when I was an intern there. It’s a catchy title and I remember researching this history of jiaozi and long-life noodles at the time and being fascinated by the variations and the stories.
I’m writing it about it now because I find it comforting to know that despite a pandemic, history can never be altered, even if the holiday associated with it can. Chinese New Year won’t be the same this year, neither in China, where non-essential travel is being discouraged, nor in North America.
But there’s something steady about dumplings – beautiful little balls that you methodically stuff with ground meat and vegetables, then seam or fry and dip into salty sauces.
I was reminded of all this while reading Ivy Lerner-Frank’s article on Eater Montreal about what Chinese restaurants in the city are planning to do for the New Year holiday this year, which takes place Feb. 11-17, 2021, with the most important day, the New Year’s Day itself, being Feb. 12.
There’s a bit of history in her piece and a lot of interesting dishes, like chickens shaped into gourds. So if you’re hungry, check out both articles, which might help steady you a bit, sort of like you were walking through a pool of gelatinous braised chicken feet.
Now there’s an image for you. Now go eat some dumplings.
Here’s a great recipe.
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