How could anything be better than the fix-it-and-forget-it mentality of slow cookers and their resulting fork tender meat? you ask.
Excellent question.
In a slow cooker, the skin (if you use it) ends up flimsy and gelatinous, even if you sear it beforehand. The only work around being a kitchen torch to do a quick patch job after the cooking is done, but good luck getting the meat out of the cooker in one piece.
But anyone who loves BBQ will tell you life isn’t worth it without some bark – the crust that forms as liquid evaporates and fat caramelizes the outside of a roast is gastronomic gold. Low and slow is the mantra. The same works with a regular oven: stick in a piece of meat in with some liquid to cook it gently, cover it (or baste it regularly so it doesn’t dry out), and you get tender meat. Then remove the lid for the last part of baking and you get bark.
Win-win.
Cider-Braised Turkey Thigh
1 tbsp oil
1 giant turkey thigh (or 4-6 drumsticks)
Spice rub:
1 tbsp Chinese five spice (or 1 tsp ground cinnamon, 1/2 tsp ground star anise, 1/2 tsp ground Sichuan peppercorn, 1/8 tsp ground cloves, 1/4 tsp ground fennel)
3/4 tsp salt
1/4 tsp pepper
For the braise:
4 nectarines or plums, cored and sliced into wedges
2 shallots, minced
1 clove garlic, minced
2 cups dry cider (I used Eros Dry Cider from Maniadakis, one of the only organic apple orchards and “cidrerie” in Quebec. Michel Jodoin or CID in Quebec is also good, though sweeter, but Angry Orchard or even Strongbow will do if you’re outside the province)
About 12 sage leaves, dried or fresh
1 bay leaf
Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a large oven-safe casserole dish, thick baking pan, cast iron skillet or dutch oven, heat the oil over high heat. Sprinkle the meat with the combined spice rub and sear for about 3 minutes on each side, until browned. All the meat should fit in the pan at the same time. Remove the meat to a plate.
Place the nectarines, minced shallot and garlic in the pan and reduce the heat to medium-high. Cook and stir for 5 minutes, or until the fruit has softened and the shallots are translucent.
Place the meat back in the pot on top of the nectarines and add the cider, sage and bay leaf. Bring to a boil, then cover (use aluminium foil if the pot doesn’t have an oven-safe cover) and transfer to the preheated oven. Braise for 1 hour (or 30 minutes if using drumsticks). Remove the cover, baste the meat in the juices and braised 30 minutes more (15 minutes more for drumsticks). Remove the meat to a clean plate and cover with foil. Let rest 5 minutes. You can now either reduce the braising liquid by returning it to the stove and cooking over medium heat for about 5 minutes until it’s thick, or keep it thin. Taste it and adjust with salt as necessary, remembering that if you reduce it, you won’t need as much salt.
Pour a little of the sauce over slice meat and serve.
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