I’d heard there was a place in the world where you climb up giant overhanging walls with rocket-sized stalactites, and when you get to the top (or when you fall) there’s nothing but crystal-blue, warm water below. That’s Deep Water Soloing, and it’s a big reason I came here. That, and the food.
There are a couple of tour companies that organize day trips to Sunset Island (one of the many picturesque islands that crop out of the water in the middle of a National Park) and the other best-known Deep Water Soloing destinations near Ton Soi in Krabi Province (where the rockclimbers stay—it’s cheaper than Railay Beach). And I’d heard recommendations for Base Camp Ton Sai: 800 baht ($26.50 CAD) for a full day of climbing at two sites, plus lunch provided on a beach with optional snorkeling, and climbing shoe and chalk rental.
Base Camp Ton Sai is next to where I’m staying, and even has its own bungalows/guesthouses, but I splurged on Dream Valley (relative luxury) with my gecko, not too many ants, fans, hot water, 22-hour electricity, and window screens. I signed up the night before, and at 10:15am made my way to the cushioned seating area of the shop, removing my shoes before entering, as is the Thai custom.
From a selection of 40 or so pairs of shoes not sorted by size, type or quality (good luck finding a label after all the salt water these rentals have seen), you choose the best options. There were La Sportivas, 5.10’s, and even a pair of black Red Chilis that miraculously fit me. Most had holes in the toes and were cast-offs by climbers who’d passed through, but beggars can’t be choosers. If you’re planning to jump on 7a climbs you’re going to want something where your toe doesn’t stick out, so choose wisely. Forget about the fact that hundreds of other sweaty, soggy feet were in your shoes before you. The salt water probably keeps them more hygienic than you’d think, right???
All assembled, we trekked down to the beach into a chartered longtail boat (propane-fueled wooden 20-seater) and 25 minutes later we were with a small group of other boats in front of a huge cliff. Ladders and knotted cords at the bottom of the cliff indicated the start of routes ranging from 5 (5.7? 5.8?) to 7b (5.12) (we’d looked at a laminated guide in the longtail on the way there, too). And a Thai guide from the boat helps you into a kayak pulled out of the longtail and ferries you to the start of a route.
The routes don’t look that high…
You don’t think you’re going to be that scared as you watch someone climb up ahead of you. But then you look down and the water starts to look further away and suddenly a 6a turns into a mental trip. What if you fall here? That’s like a three-metre diving board at least, and you’re only going higher. What do you get by finishing the route? A longer jump into the water and potential pain, that’s what. Seems pretty counter-intuitive if you’re scared of heights. You should want to fail early.
So after having a guy named Ryan calm me down a little and encourage my wimpy downclimbing and eventual jump from about 7 feet up, I figured the best strategy for the day would be to try hard routes that didn’t go that high.
I saw a guy doing a crazy 7a on a roof. Perfect.
THE 7A ROOF
I climbed a knotted cord Navy Seal-style to a quick boulder problem start. Topped out on a ledge and tried to dry my hands before leaning back onto a stalactite. I couldn’t find where to put my hands. There are lots of pockets but there’s nothing with a good grip, especially with the wetness. Our Thai guides on the boat start yelling, “left hand higher!” “more right!” and “more high!” as I find the left hand under-cling, the right hand gaston, the left hand deep ledge, and high right hand to a big under-cling. Match left hand, feet on a big ledge up and out to the right, don’t think about the almost 90° angle of my body, parallel to the water (if I fall I’m going straight down on my back. From even 3 or 4 metres up it’s going to hurt). I pull my right hand through to a giant ledge, move my feet carefully along the ceiling and get the massive leg hook on the ledge above. Hands-free rest upside down!!!!!!
Best. Feeling. In. The. World. I yelled in joy. I think my Thai guides were smiling.
I’m 4 metres above the warmest, cleanest water I’ve ever swam in, hanging upside-down from my right leg with my left jammed underneath, looking out at the sunshine, the water and islands that stretch eternally onward, and the other climbers watching from the longtail, cheering me on.
Time to move on. I pulled up to the next couple of holds but couldn’t find a solid right handhold. What I’d realized below was that the routes are beta intensive. If you miss that left handhold above the gaston, which you can’t really see from below, then you’re not going to make it. I was getting tired, and it’s a lot less intimidating to jump from an overhang than from a vertical rock face, so I figured now was as good a time as ever. No scary, awkward falling. There was nowhere to go but down, but no way to downclimb.
1. 2. 3. Jump.
The water was warm and calming. I swam back to the longtail, stopping just to “wai” (to the Thai guides who helped me, bringing my hands together in front of my face in a prayer position and bowing my head. “Korp kun ka,” I tried to thank them in my horrible Thai, forgetting which way the syllables go (up, down, high, medium, or low sounds).
Of course I had to try it again. I didn’t get a picture…
20 minutes later I was back on the rock, still a little pumped, and moving up the roof section. I’d had a tough time with the knotted cord at the bottom, cutting loose for a good 20 seconds and not being able to get my left foot in the loop. Huge waste of energy. I took a good rest on the ledge, but when I started moving out I knew I was weak. I found the gaston and left-hand ledge, then the under-cling, match, big right hand. But I couldn’t get my feet out along the roof properly. I tried a hail mary heelhook and suddenly my legs cut out from under me, swinging backwards and pulling my hands off the ledge. 4 metres down, falling sideways and backwards. I didn’t yell from fear. I yelled from frustration. And then I yelled from pain. Ever since I heard that yelling makes the pain or difficulty feel like less than it is, I’ve been a big yeller when I climb. CRASH! Into the water and way too high a speed. My whole right leg burning. I yelled and laughed as I swam back to the longtail. At least I’d tried.
No fear. There was no ledge and no people below. It was safe. I cut myself up worse later that day (just a couple scrapes on my legs) on a 7a+ traverse only a metre above the water with a bunch of heel hooks.
I think my favourite part besides the leg hook upside-down hang was climbing out of the kayak to the start of routes. You had to balance on the kayak, find the right holds for your hands and feet (often high and to the side for the feet), and mantle and pull. The holds were huge but it was strong bouldering and it felt great. And unlike bouldering, taking a fall at the start into soft water would be a lot nicer than treacherous rocks under a crash pad in the woods. I liked how the guides were well-trained. The guy in the kayak immediately got out of your way once you pulled onto the rock, so that if you fell you didn’t land on the kayak and hurt yourself. They were strong paddlers. If I’d had an accident I have no doubt they would have had me out of the water in 10 seconds or less.
The doing it all in a bikini was pretty awesome too, I’m not going to lie. I’m not talking scanty beachwear that’s going to fly off when you fall—more sports-style top and bottom—but it makes the whole experience feel completely different than a climbing gym or a mountain.
Thanks to the guys from Base Camp Tonsai for the awesome day or traversing, climbing only as high as my head could handle, beautiful views, and great memories. It’s for all levels of climbers (rec to hardcore) but someone not really into climbing might be bored in the afternoon when most of the climbs are hard (one 5, one 6, and the rest 7’s, I think) and you’re tired from the morning. Bring a book to enjoy after lunch and snorkeling if you don’t feel like getting back on the rock. 800 baht is worth it. Incredible experience.
Leave a Reply