Loïc Wine Bar and Two Wine Events in Montreal

First there was Ludger. Now there’s Loïc. Here’s what you need to know about the second wine bar in Montreal’s St-Henri neighbourhood:

1. Decor. It’s in an old bank, so the ceilings are high, the feel is hipster but with a grungy looking seating area in front of the bar and a super sleek booth section behind. There are mirrors and it’s all dark and secluded. That is, until there’s a huge party like the whole lamb roast the other day. Lamb on a pit with wines to accompany and the makers of those wines in attendance (it’s RASPIPAV private import weekend. Might have something to do with it.

2. Cool wines. After tasting samples of almost all the by-the-glass options, I can say confidently that the staff will be able to find you something you like on the small but carefully selected list. It’s all private import (an agency brings it in through the SAQ but sells it to restaurants and individuals by the case rather than actually at the SAQ, most often), usually from small estates doing things biodynamically, naturally and/or organically.

Here’s a breakdown of the whites (note: they’ve now completely changed the list, but fear not. There’ll be something equally if not more delicious):

You’re seeing a lot of Domaine Barmès Buecher on Montreal wine lists these days. The biodynamic Alsatian vineyards produce very affordable, very tasty wines. Calling them easy-to-drink makes them sound too simple, but they’re not beefy or complicated or snobbish either. They’re your go-to friend when you need someone to go to dinner or a movie or talk about feelings with — you know, metaphorically.

At Loïc, the option of the week was the “Trilogie.” At $9, it’s a steal.

Next: Bourgogne Aligoté – Domaine Henri Naudin-Ferrand – France – $9

You’ll rarely see a $9 Aligoté on a menu, even though you can get a very reasonable bottle of the type at the SAQ for between $15-$25. So with restaurant markup, you end up paying in the teens per glass. This one from Domaine Naudin-Ferrand was lovely, which is how Aligotés should be. Refreshing with a tiny bit of acidity to keep it fresh, but no bitterness or excess sugar. It feels like luxury in a dark, casual wine bar.

Then: Vino da Tavola – Catavela – Denavolo – Italy – $10

Don’t be fooled by the title of ”table wine.” It’s quality. In fact, it’s one of the staff favourites. It goes great with the mixed vegetable crudités and aioli but also with the end of summer strawberries from the local farm. both totally affordable, raw, simple and delicious.

If you’re going by-the-bottle, check out the Norman Hardie selection. The biodynamic Niagara winery is way more local than the French and Italian options and just as refined. And $65 for a bottle of Norman Hardie is not bad.

Yes, they also have reds, and I taste-tested a few of those, too, but they change regularly. Just go and try.

3. Music venue upstairs. This place fills up when there’s a punk, rock or other show upstairs at Turbo Haus.

4. Tacos down the road. You’ve got your choice between $2 al pastor at Chez Frida and $6 beef tongue with fresh salsas and garnishes at Chez Victor. You know, for the days when they’re not roasting a lamb on an open fire and a charcuterie or smoked fish platter just doesn’t fill you up.

Verdict? It’s a cool and weird (and affordable, as far as winebars go) – the kind of place that stands out in the neighbourhood…but kind of fits.

I mentioned RASPIPAV and the private import salon (you can buy a lot of things by the bottle and get it delivered to your home for $12 or local SAQ for $0-$6. Normally you have to buy a whole case), but there’s also La Grande Dégustation at the Palais de Congrèa coming up next weekend. I go to both, but usually prefer RASPIPAV.

My coup de coeur import companies include Rézin, Bambara Selection and Oenopole, to name a few. But there’s a crazy selection of biodynamic, organic and natural wines (the SAQ can’t import real natural wines because of their minimum sulfite restrictions). And the wines come from smaller producers who can’t or don’t want to pay for a booth at La Grande Dég.

But what the Grande has going for it is the selection and the theme. This year the themes are sparkling wines (more Champagnes than you can responsibly drink, or even spit out should you desire), Spain and Grenache. Both have an entry fee and charge $1 a piece for tasting coupons, but you’ll have a hard time spending using more than 15 coupons, as winemakers and importers will want to run you through their whole lines and generally offer more-than-fair deals. That being said, some wines are $5/taste and are completely worth it.

Have fun! And drink responsibly.

La Grande Degustation, Nov. 5-9, 2015
RASPIPAV, ends today!