I never liked rosé until I tried one from Bandol. But like a summer fling, our affair ended when I ran out of (on?) it. Private import wines are tricky like that. Symbiose didn’t have any cases left.
So I went to Toronto and got a few bottles of Val D’Arenc, another rosé from Bandol that my fickle heart loved just as much, if not more. But again, the LCBO ran out. So here I am, waiting until next year when these producers just might sell more cases to importers in Quebec and Ontario. In the meantime, I saw a rosé at the SAQ here in Montreal from an importer I like and figured it might be dry enough and have low enough acid levels to suit me (that’s why I think I love Bandol rosé – it’s much softer and more floral than a lot of the sweet, tart or biting rosé that people drink on patios this time of year).
But before I drank my last bottles, I opened all three for a direct comparison. On their own, I think they’re all fine, but together, for me at least, there’s a clear favourite. And it wasn’t the one I thought it would be.
The Le Sot de l’Ange Sottise 2017 is the easiest one to find and the cheapest. I snagged it at the SAQ at Atwater on a whim. Let’s say I was velocitized on wine buying, like when you’re coming off a highway and fast doesn’t feel that fast. I was buying a bunch of wine and one more bottle felt like a good idea since I was spending a bunch of money anyway. Mostly, curiosity got the better of me.
It’s a good wine, but compared to the others it’s a flop. It doesn’t have their elegance. I’d use this for sangria and for anyone who wants a decently made rosé but doesn’t mind a little bite.
The Castell-Reynoard Bandol is beautiful. It’s the “heart of the vine” rosé and it has enough body to balance the softness and roses of the wine. It’s a perfect food rosé, just enough acid for fish or chicken or lighter meats and even good with a little spice because of the ripe fruit. Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Grenache grapes. I love this wine. I also got a friend into it and broke his heart when I told him there was none left in Montreal.
But this one, the Val d’Arenc, is my favourite. It’s elegant. Like a silk gown. Smooth and good for a year or so of ageing, if you can bear to wait. I have one bottle hidden away that I’m trying to forget about so I don’t drink it right away. When I have a sip of this and then a sip of the Castell-Reynoard, I realize how much more pure it is. Not that it’s sweeter, but the Castell-Reynoard has a sort of vibrancy that I don’t like as much. It could just be age, as this one has softened a bit more, but it’s probably vinification. One day I’ll understand why, but all I know is that I love this wine the best of all. And I’d go back to Toronto for more bottles if they were available.
Alas, like summer, it’s gone too soon.
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